Wednesday, 24 September 2014

2D1N Malacca Trip - Hang Tuah Well, Jonker Walk, Chicken Rice Balls, Christ Church, Klebang Coconut Shake, Peranakan Dinner & No Toilet Bowls!

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I went for a two days and one night weekend getaway to Malacca (马六甲) with Dad and his friends two weekends ago. To be precise, it was his friend and this friend's other friends.

We woke up super early that morning to meet up with his friend (and this friend's other friends) then, we board a chartered coach heading for the customs.

Malacca (a UNESCO World Heritage site) is a few hours drive away from Singapore and thankfully, I managed to catch some much deprived sleep. Along the way, we stopped for breakfast at Gelang Patah before continuing our journey towards our first destination - the Hang Tuah well.

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Hang Tuah Well

I could still remember Hang Tuah from my history textbook written by Kok Koun Chin. He (Hang Tuah; not Kok Koun Chin), is a legendary Melakan warrior who lived during the reign of Sultan Mansur Shah in the 15th century.

I thought it is rather silly to come all the way here just to visit a well but according to folklore (Google, actually), the well was dug by Hang Tuah himself and it would bring luck to anyone who drank its water. What's even more interesting is that according to the locals, his spirit is dwelling in the well, taking on the form of a white crocodile which only the holy and pure-hearted can catch a glimpse of.

The well, located at Kampung Duyung - the town of Hang Tuah's birthplace - is now declared a heritage site under the National Heritage Act 2005.

Perigi Hang Tuah
Kampung Duyong
75460, Malacca

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Shopping for local products

Leaving Kampung Duyung, we came to our first local produce store - YOYO. I am the least interested in such shopping so I just took the opportunity to release my bladder and hang around while the parents hunt for 3-in-1 white coffee and Hiong Piah.

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Jonker Walk (鸡场街)

Now, what is a trip to Malacca without going to Jonker Walk?

Every Friday and Saturday nights, Jonker Walk would be closed to vehicular traffic. Watch the street come to life when the night market vendors took over the road. 

We are there in the morning because we are going to have the famous chicken rice balls that is located here. Since we will be visiting Jonker Walk later that night, we did not explore the place.
 
The bonus of going with a group of uncles is that someone has already called to reserve a table in advance so we do not have to queue and could just walk in straight away.

Of course, this is subjected to killer stares from the people in the queue.

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Hoe Kee (和记鸡饭团)

There are three renowned chicken rice ball shops here at Malacca and each had their very own supporters forming long queues outside the shop premises everyday.

The three competitors are Hoe Kee (和记鸡饭团), Chung Wah (中华茶室) and Famosa (古城鸡饭粒).

The one that we went to is Hoe Kee.

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Hoe Kee (和记)

Hoe Kee was established in 1962 which makes them over half a century old!

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Our table of 8 comes with two plates of 10 chicken rice balls each, two plates of loose rice, one whole chicken, a plate of chicken gizzards and two plates of cabbage.

Due to a lack of experienced personal and also the long time that is needed to produce the chicken rice balls, Hoe Kee now serves loose rice together with rice balls.

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The two plates of 10 chicken rice balls

After years of hankering for a taste of chicken rice balls, I finally had my curiosity satiated.

Regrettably, I find the rice ball mushy, lacking in aroma and cold. Perhaps the rice ball would have tasted better if served hot although it might be difficult for the staff to hand-shape.

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The pak cham gai (poached chicken)

As for the chicken, it's nothing spectacular. The meat is rather lean without obvious fats visible so I deduce they are using kampung chicken. The meat seem tough but the saving grace of the day is the savory sauce which makes the lean meat a little less painful to eat.

In my opinion, I feel this chicken rice ball hype is over-rated.

I wonder what magic does these rice balls possess to make so many people queue outside their premises to the point that they had to turn customers away because they have run out of chickens for the day?

Hoe Kee Chicken Rice (和记鸡饭团)
4,6,8, Jalan Hang Jebat
75200 Melaka
Hours:
Mon - Fri: 10:30 - 17:00
Sat - Sun: 10:30 - 18:00
Telephone: 06-283 4751

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Some say that Chung Wah is better than Hoe Kee. I have not eaten at Chung Wah before so I do not know but look at their queue.

Chung Wah is across the road from San Shu Gong (三叔公), just a few steps away from Hoe Kee.

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Admiral Cheng Ho was said to be a Muslim and
had visited Malacca during one of his 7 expeditions

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Christ Church

Christ Church is an 18th-century Anglican church and is the oldest functioning Protestant church in Malaysia.

During my last visit a couple of years ago, there was a man with a python around the Queen Victoria's fountain but I did not see him this time. Anyone knows where he went?

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At Dutch Square, it is not hard to notice these gaudy tricycles decorated with Hello Kitty dolls! Just wait till night time to see them in their full glory! You will be dazzled!

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Klebang Original Coconut Shake

After lunch, we came here for the famous coconut shake. They have a kiosk by the roadside for takeaways but if you turn further inside the path, they have a larger dining area which can easily accommodate hundreds of people with ample parking.

You can tell how immensely popular this beverage is with both the locals and visitors by the brisk business it enjoys.

The coconut shake is a concoction of blended ice, coconut juice, coconut flesh and vanilla ice cream while the "Special" is topped with another scoop of vanilla ice cream.

Other than coconut shake, they also offer a variety of Malay kuih (3 for RM1). I recommend the mini packet Nasi Lemak (RM1.30) for its delicious sambal!

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Coconut Shake Special RM2.20

Klebang Original Coconut Shake
Lot 130, Solok Kampung Bahagia
Klebang Besar
75250 Melaka
Telephone: 013-3994061

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After having the coconut shake, we came to a shop selling honey. The host shared how honey is harvested and also imparted some basic knowledge about bees with us. Inside the shop, they even had a glass wall hidden behind a curtain that is filled with bees!

Be forewarned that the men's toilet here only have urinals but NO toilet bowls.

At last, it is time for us to check into our hotel to wash up and have a short rest. We are putting up at Hatten Hotel for the night.

This pretty new hotel is located just beside Hatten Square, Mahkota Parade and Dataran Pahlawan but due to time constraints, I did not have time to window shop at all.

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That is my add-on bed on the right. There are two more beds inside for my parents. What I love about this hotel is that there are two TVs (but sharing one remote). One TV is in front of the two beds inside while the other is opposite this grey couch (on the wall above my bed).

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The toilet is clean and spacious but it can get a little cold. I got the chill just for taking a dump naked.

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I didn't feel like getting out from under the hot water because the air in the toilet is too cold.

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Basic amenities checked.

After resting for a while, it's time to head out for our Peranakan dinner.

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That Bear got me excited!

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Dinner was here at Restoran Ole Sayang (亲切餐馆)

It is quite a daunting task trying to take food photos when eating with unfamiliar people. Here I am pointing my camera at the dish and someone's chopsticks is already picking at the food. It is a competition for speed for me to press the shutter before this annoying uncle's chopsticks appear in my photos.

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(Left) Nonya Chap Chye, (Right) Tofu

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(Left) Cincalok Omelette, (Right) Rendang Chicken

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(Left) For the life of me, I cannot remember what this is, (Right) Assam Fish

The meal is ok but I did not eat a lot as I am honestly freak out to share food with strangers as everyone is dipping their own utensils into the food.

Communal spoon and fork is provided for most of the dishes so why can't people learn to use them?

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When I return from the washroom, the Cendol was already served into smaller bowls. The annoying uncle has gone out for a smoke so I got to eat his share.

The gula melaka and coconut milk is very addictive indeed!

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The restaurant has quite a homely feel

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The address and business hours

Another reason why I did not eat a lot was because we traded going to Jonker Walk for this - Satay Celup!

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Capitol Satay (佳必多沙爹)

When we arrived, the queue is about three shops length and waiting time is estimated to be about an hour. To my horror, Dad's friends decided not to wait barely five minutes into the queue.

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The crowd inside Capitol Satay Celup

Still in disbelief, we made our way to the Dutch Square. 

"Okay, maybe we can now stick to the original plan and go to Jonker Walk?" I thought but no, all they wanted is to return to the hotel!

Earlier in the day, they had declined to visit St. Pauls Church and A'Famosa. Now, they refused to eat Satay Celup and going to Jonker Walk...

TELL ME, WHY YOU PEOPLE
COME TO MALACCA FOR????
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The trishaws come to life at night with the lights and music
(Google image. If you are the owner of this image, please let me know
to credit you or if you want me to take down this image)

After getting back to the hotel lobby, the parents decided to go for a massage at Dataran Pahlawan. I already had everything worked out: while the parents are having their massage, I would go execute my secret plan.

Unfortunately, when we got to the massage parlor, they only have a slot for one more person so Mum gets to do it.

In the end, I had to bring Dad along for...

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A&W!!!

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Root Beer Float! Why aren't you full to the brim?

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I ordered Combo 11 with curly fries and upgrade the drink to Root Beer Float to share with Dad. I am so relieved that the counter crew can speak English. I don't understand why the teenage counter crew at Mary Browns City Square (JB) cannot understand a word I say?

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I takeaway a Coney Dog for Mum

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Ala Carte Coney Dog RM6.45

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The mall is almost closing when we went to pick Mum up from the massage parlor

I am more than happy to oblige when Mum let me have the Coney Dog instead. Harry Potter & The Deathly Hallows was showing on TV that night but I fell asleep watching it halfway as I was too tired.

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Breakfast next morning!

Breakfast was quite a spread but the food are mostly cold (even in food warmers) especially the fried stuff.

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My favorite soft boiled eggs

When I am holidaying in Malaysia, I love to eat soft boiled eggs. I find Malaysian egg yolks larger and more orangy!

I have four eggs in that bowl above and it is so shiok to feel the eggs gliding down my throat. I don't usually eat that much eggs in one setting but just eating with wild abandon while on holiday.

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Teochew Porridge

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Having stayed in Hatten Hotel for a night, I am quite pleased with the room except for the fact that my room does not come with any views. The window faces another room's windows so we had to draw the curtains at all times.

The above is the Straits of Malacca (hope I'm not wrong) and that shot is taken from the shut window at the corridor.

Another problem I encountered is with the wifi on my phone. The status states that it is connected but I simply cannot log in onto any websites although there is no problem with my tablet. Since we are only staying for a night, I did not bother sorting it out with the front desk.

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A rare selfie moment at the lobby waiting for check out

The first itinerary on the second day is at SGT Food - another local produce shop. Must we really visit so many local produce shops that market identical products?

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Spotted this two couple cups at SGT Food

After visiting SGT Food, we were headed for a temple at Jonker Walk. There is nothing much to see at Jonker Walk in the morning as most of the stores are still not opened. 

I'm still sore that we did not get to visit Jonker Walk the previous night!

Walked past this store selling Lego minifigs but there was no time to even stop to take a look. We need to rush, rush, rush!

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I regret not buying...

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Finally reached the temple but the moment I step foot inside, I started to make a beeline for the toilet. 

Let it go, let it go, can't hold it back anymore! Let it go, let it go, turn my back and slam the door!

And my face turn green when I stared at the toilet bowl which looked like a century old artifact.

Somehow, I realized that the shops I went to in Malacca only have urinals but no toilet bowls. 

WHY? Malaccans don't need to poop? 

Malacca is a historical site but surely we do not need to go the primitive way when we have the big one coming?

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Refreshing Winter Melon Tea with Chestnut from the vendor outside the temple

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You have the option of "bitter" or "sweet" and "hot" or "cold"

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The temple

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Why is Jonker Walk so infatuated with Hello Kitty?

 jonker, jonker street, jonker walk, malacca, malaysia, travels,  马六甲, 鸡场街
Grow! Grow! Grow!

If you have watched TOTORO, you would know what this scene is all about.

 jonker, jonker street, jonker walk, malacca, malaysia, travels,  马六甲, 鸡场街
Mamee Museum

I am stoked to see a Mamee Museum I wished I could take a closer look but we were again rushing off to the next location that I did not even have time to reshoot.

 jonker, jonker street, jonker walk, malacca, malaysia, travels,  马六甲, 鸡场街

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We were rushing to the Baba & Nyonya Heritage Museum guided tour at 9am. I enjoy visiting museums but I cannot get over the fact that photography is not allowed inside.

I abhor places with the stupid "NO Photography" rule and that includes the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion at Penang.

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Be forewarned that the men's toilet at the Baba & Nyonya Heritage Museum only have urinals but NO toilet bowls. 

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Baba & Nyonya House Museum
Nos. 48 & 50 Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock
75200 Melaka, Malaysia
Telephone: +606-283 1273

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Fake Peranakan ceramic wares at the alley beside the museum

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We came here for the durian puff because someone praised these molten durian puffs to the skies but nope, didn't send me to the moon at all...

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Leaving Jonker Walk, we started to head out for Baba Charlie.

Baba Charlie started out selling their Peranakan kueh door to door (or so I googled). Apparently, their kueh became so popular that they now operate their business from home. They even supply their kueh to hotels and cafes.

I would have loved to buy some kueh but on the day of our visit, there were so many people jostling in the house that I didn't feel like buying anything anymore. I was initially aiming for the Durian Apom but seeing the horrendous line of people queuing to pay, I backed off.

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(Left to Right) Kueh Lapis, Kueh Dadar, Durian Apom

Be forewarned that the men's toilet here at Baba Charlie only have urinals but NO toilet bowls.

Baba Charlie Nyonya Cakes
72, Jalan Tengkera Pantai
2C
75200 Melaka
Telephone: +60 19-666 2907

Sadly, it was time to head back home. The time is still early but those people wanted to avoid the jam at the causeway.

However, there is always time for lunch.

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(Left) Cold Platter, (Right) Tofu

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(Left) Fried fish fillet with watermelon and pineapple, (Right) Prawns - I forgot to eat this

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(Left) Nga Choy Ngap (Beansprout Duck), (Right) Suckling Pig

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Orr Nee with Kim Kueh (Yam Paste with Pumpkin)

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Lunch was here at L.T.P

Restaurant L.T.P Sdn. Bhd.
251, Jalan Tun Sri Lanang
75100 Melaka
Telephone: +60 6-282 2737

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As I return to the coach after lunch, I saw a few people taking photos of this notice. I wonder why until I read it...

trafffic jam,causeway, malacca, malaysia, travels,  马六甲

By the time we reach the customs at about 5pm, the jam in the car lane is already building up. Fortunately, the bus lane is relatively smooth and we cleared the custom quite effortlessly.

Overall, I do enjoy the short weekend getaway but is just a little peeved that we failed to visit the night market at Jonker Walk and having Satay Celup. I feel a lot of time is being wasted going to the bee shop and local produce shops (土产店) which only benefits the commission of the hired tour guide.

If only those traveling time and time spent in the shops are given to us to explore a bit more so we probably won't have to keep rushing here, there, everywhere. 


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